Santa Catarina and Goodbye to Brazil

My last week in Brazil o Brasil em Portuguese................ 1 2 3 agh!!!!!!!!!!!!

This week happened to be Carnaval so I left Brazil on a high! I divided my time between Florianopolis and Imbituba both located in the state of Santa Catarina, which is on the South-East coast.




           Floripa in preparation for Carnaval 2011


Florianopolis (aka Floripa) is a really beautiful island down the south of Brazil within a days drive of the Uruguayan border. It is the capital city of Santa Catarina and is renowed for its abundance of beautiful beaches. It houses 42 beaches and hence is a centre of surfing activity. It is a very safe city, very clean and aesthetically beautiful. This idyllic combination attracts a huge amount of tourists from all over Brazil, Argentina and other parts of the world. I have been told that the population nearly doubles on the island during their summer when tourists flood the island!

                                                             Captivating Florianopolis

I arrived a few days before Carnaval, where I was very fortunate to be put up by Thiago and his flatmates Taison and Eliezer. I sent a message to the Couchsurfing community in Floripa a few weeks before Carnaval stating that I would be looking for somewhere to stay during Carnaval and I only got one offer. Well I was incredibly lucky that it was from Thiago as I had an incredible week where I got to meet all his good buddies. It was my first time availing of a "couch" (term used in couchsurfing) through the couchsurfing network. For those who are unaware of what couchsurfing is, it is a network/community of people from each state or place who can either house tourists for free or meet them for a drink or coffee to show them their city etc........... It is a fantastic concept used all over the world and has proved for me the best way to meet locals in the places I visited. I met c 40/50 couchsurfers during my travels and wouldn't have a bad word to say about any of them.  

Well guess what.......................I met tons more fantastic Brazilians during my last week in Brazil! There's a common theme developing there for Brazil you might say!

Thiago treated me like a lifelong friend. Thiago works in a travel agency and has spent some time in Europe but has great plans to see more of the world. His command of the English language continued to astound me as it has a been a few years since he spent a few short months in the UK. His flatmates Eliezer and Taison were also cool guys who made you feel very welcome. It was great to meet more cool Brazilians who yet again made this part of the trip so enjoyable!

                                                               Thiago having a smoke!

                                                               Thiago giving it socks!!!

                                                                    Eliezer relaxing watching the tv!


I was in Floripa for a couple of days before Carnaval. My first day out visiting the city centre I took a few minutes out to sit down and watch the people interacting on the street. I got invited by two locals to drink a few beers and I ended up spending c 4 hours having the craic with the boys who spoke little or no English. These boys just talked about ladies all the time and were claiming they were heading off to a certain establishment after the beers. Will leave that to the imagination!!!! They were gas craic and we had a good few laughs.

                                        A good few were had by the time this picture was taken!

The guy to the right was a real messer and at this stage he's pointing out a young lady at a far table he had his eye on!

                                            Ice cold beer (Skol is the brand here) in Brazil

               One of the lads getting his shoes shined. May not be the only thing he got polished that day!

                                                               Ordering more beers!

                                          The young lady leaving that the old guy had his eye on!


Later that night Thiago invited me to head out to a local bar to meet his good buddy Marlon. Marlon collected us and we went to a local bar to have a few more beers and a few of the famed Brazilian snacks. I had a good few on me before I ventured out which is evident from the pictures below. Marlon is another cool guy, always smiling and who was up for the craic!

                                                Thiago, Marlon and meself making faces!

                                            Marlon getting a giggle out of my drunkeness!

                                                Thiago looks like he's falling asleep here!



Thiago invited me to spend a few days with him and his flatmate Elizier in a town he spent a lot of his youth in called Imbituba. It was c 60kms away from Floripa and we spent 4 days there during Carnaval. I was very fortunate to meet lots of Thiago's buddies there and we had a fantastic few days!!!

Imbituba is a beach town not to dissimilar in size to a Westport at home. It was a great place to spend Carnaval as it wasn't too big which ensured everybody were concentrated into the same locations. It also has the perfect combination of wide streets which are ideal for trio eletricos (trucks with bands) and small cobble stoned streets which are perfect for the small drum/trumpet bands (bloccos) that encapsulate the perfect environment for street parties! I spent three night there which in short consisted of the below:

Day 1

Thiago organised tickets for a gig with live performances from local artists where circa a thousand people or more were crammed into an area the size of a football pitch. Small stalls on the periphery offered beer and spirits while everybody was getting high on class live music and on the simple fact that Carnaval had officially began!

                                                Carnaval at the live performances in Imbituba


Once you entered the arena you were handed a particular shirt which was I suppose your ticket and access back in if you ventured outside.

                     Me and Eliezer later on that night in the shirts/vests got for going to the live music


The live music lasted c 5 hours and then close to midnight a trio-electrio (live music played on top of a truck/bus) left the arena onto the streets of Imbituba to be followed by all those who were at the event. Things developed more into a street party with people dancing their night away following the truck into the town centre!

                                        Trios Electrios and the mad party atmosphere on the street


Once you arrived in the town centre the main street was blocked off for a parade of bands and dancers who entertained the crowds who had flocked in despite the bad weather.

                                              Live performances on the street later that night


Day 2

I was lucky to be invited by Thiago's buddy Leandro to a BBQ in his house and again experience the warm Brazilian hospitality. I had a great time making new friends, knocking back the beers and gourging on the great culinary skills of Leandro! The BBQ was for c 15 of Leandro's buddies and we all devoured oodles and oodles of Brahma or Skol or whatever beer we could get our hands on. I didn't head on out that night as was feeling my age but Leandro and a few of the guys did.

     Making New Friends at Leandro's BBQ including in these pics Leandro, Filipe and Filipe's girlfriend Julie

Day 3

Every year during Carnaval you get a day were all the guys have to dress up as ladies/cailins/mulheres. They really go to town on it with lads putting on outfits got from either their mother, sister or girlfriend and pile on the make-up & jewellery. In Imbituba they had a street party with all the crowds following a drum/trumpet band on the smaller cobble stoned streets. There is a lot of mickey taking with actual girls grabbing guys in drag asses etc......You follow the bands into another part of the town where people just congregate on the street to dance the rest of the night away.

                                                A real mix of different looking ladies!!!!!!!!!!!


We headed back to Floripa on day 4 for the last day of Carnaval but we were all shattered and took it easy, which suited mise as I had a bus to catch the next day to Uruguay.

We actually camped for the three nights which was a bit of fun if it wasn't for the rain! We spent the first night in a campsite and the last two nights camped on Leandro's parents balcony. Leandro's family were sharing their house with two friends but everybody made me feel very welcome. They cooked us dinner, made us breakfast and even the neighbours made you feel part of the family. You can't beat the Brazilian hospitality!

Carnaval is not famous for its hard partying down the south of Brazil. In most places the party lasts 4 days where it can go on for weeks in parts of the North east. Despite this in Imbituba I had a great time and made lots of good friends including Leandro, Leandro's family, Mathias, Kassyo, Sergio, Filipe, Two Julie's, Marcia, Viviane, Priscilla, Marcia's sister whose name escapes me and many more!  Yet again I was accepted immeadiatly by all and made feel very welcome.

                                           Filipe at the BBQ with the two Julie's in the background!

                                                         Myself and Filipe at the BBQ

             Eliezer, Marcia's siter, Marcia (who got christened the boss or "chefe"), mise, Thiago and Priscilla

The lads at the campsite. I don't look too pissed off there but I was an hour or so before this picture was taken after watching Man United getting thumped by our arch-enemies Liverpool 3-1

 Thiago giving it socks at the BBQ. A very educated young man who plans to head to the Emerald Isle (Ireland) in the near future.

                                               All the boys at the end of the night at the BBQ!

                      Leandro, Thiago and Filipe. Filipe doing his Jedward hair impression in this shot!

                                                    Sergio, Leandro, Thiago, Filipe agus mise!

                    Leandro, Filipe and the two Julie's getting their picture ruined by you know who!!!!!!!


I was also fortunate to meet a resplendant Marita during the first day of Imbituba's carnaval. The pictures below are of later that night when we all were together getting some food. One of her friends with little or no English kept on referring to Cuchulainn, an Irish mythological hero, every time Ireland was mentioned! Unfortunately we only meet up for one day as they were heading to a different location the next day but as like pretty much all the others I met in Imbituba we are still in contact on facebook.

                                                     The beautiful Marita and meself! 

                                   Marita's buddy on the right who kept on referring to Cuchulainn

Santa Catarina

The south of Brazil is in complete contrast to the North of Brazil which I suppose is to be expected for a country more or less the same size and similar population to the US. The North of Brazil has a strong African influence where the south of Brazil is much more European in its outlook. They are famed for industry, hard-work, organisation and have less racial intergration as a lot of other parts of the country. In some ways the south of Brazil has more things in common with their Uruguayan and Argentinan neighbours than they do with the North East. Uruguay, Argentina and south of Brazil share a love of mate (a tea drink), are not so obsessed with partying, are more structured and as a result safer than most of the North East of Brazil. They all also have a very strong European influence represented in how people look, how people act and how people live their lives.

The people in the south east of Brazil are renowned to be the best looking in the country. Beautiful people parade the streets and with a strong beach culture prevalent the masses take very good care of their bodies. Floripa is famed for its quality of life with better work opportunites, breathtaking beachs, good climate, a very safe environment and in truth would be the area most people at home would feel most comfortable settling down in if they moved to Brazil. I admit I regret that while there I did not visit more of the island and see more of the aesthitics but maybe this is a good excuse to return to visit old friends and experience more good times!

                                                  Some of the attractive Floripa ladies!

BRAZIL

Anyone who knows me is well aware that I have a strong affinity for Brazil. Then again this is not without reason but in the main I put it down to the people I meet when there. If I were given 10 words to describe Brazilians, the following words spring to mind:

Words Describe Brazilìans

• Fun
• Warm
• Open
• Friendly
• Natural
• Unselfish
• Passionate
• Sexy
• Happy
• Smiley

It would be remiss of me to say everything is fantastic there as like us all there are negatives side to Brazil and Brazilians. Some Brazilians are vain and you do meet some rude Brazilians but these are more the exception than the rule. Brazil is defintely not as safe as at home, as this is one area that most Brazilians are unhappy with as they often warn you of the dangers that exist, and you do meet many tourists who get robbed but thankfully I had no issues on this trip. Walking the streets at night though can be dangerous and you need to keep your wits about you! Many Brazilians are Aryton Senna impressionists as they drive way more crazy than we do at home with people constantly overtaking and cutting across lanes but then again the other drivers don't seem to mind!

It can be hard as well to get things done as a tourist in Brazil. Nearly every gringo I met had difficulties withdrawing money from an ATM at some stage on their trip. It is nearby impossible for non-Brazilians to book internal flight tickets and bus tickets online as in most cases they only accept local credit cards and some things at times don't work like phone booths or atms. This are all only petty irratitions and are not prevalent in every part of Brazil that I have visited but these were the common complaints of tourists you would meet. The only other small negative thing for tourists on Brazil for me is that it is a good bit more expensive than other South American countries I visited. Their economy and currency are on the rise but then again things as a whole are still more expensive in Europe!!!

They are incredible hosts and when you meet them they do everything thats expected of great hosts like make you feel at home, introduce you to their friends, organise events, nights out and activites to experience in their home-town. To top this, they always surprize you by doing umpteen things more than expected like make you food, collect you, bring you everywhere, immerse you into their daily lives and put aside any plans they had in order to make your experience in their town/city as enjoyable as possible. It reminds a little of what Ireland used to be like in the past and something I hope we can return to!

Brazil has without doubt the strongest culture of all the South American countries I have visited. It is such a unique culture highlighted by the variety of uniquely Brazilian things that can be experienced including some of the below:

Unique Brazilian Items

• Love of party strongly refelcted in their love of street parties and Carnaval
• Wide variety of music (arguably the strongest music culture I have ever experienced - see below)
• Wide varety of Juices on offer. Juice bars are omni-present and have at times more then 50 different juices on offer of which c 15% of them are unique to Brazil. The quality of the juices are also second to none. I miss them already!!!!!!
• Fanatical abour footie. Famous for being the world's best footballing nation having won the World Cup on 5 different occasions and having produced so many world class players. They play many different forms of the game and everybody has an interest in the game whether they are male or female or young or old!
• Brazilians love to dance and are pretty nimble and able in their moves. Hips get moved a lot and dancing is something that comes naturally to them unlike at home!
• Like most cultures Brazil has a lot of unique dishes. The most famous being the balck beans Feijoada.
• In Brazil a lot of their social events are experienced on the street. They do not have a strong bar culture like most of the rest of the world so parties and drinking are more often than not done on the street.
• I know Carnaval exists in other cultures but none quite like Brazil. All 190 million Brazilians go crazy and once you have experienced the Carnaval in Recife/Olinda then every other party you experience for the rest of your life will never be able to compare.
• Brazil also has a variety of unique drinks. Most of them are the juices explained above but you also have spirits like Caipirinha, Caipiroska, Cachaca and the numerous Brazilian Beers.
• As mentioned before in another blog, Brazil has a unique beach culture. Most of the Brazilian population live close to the coastline so the beach is a massive part of their life. Everything is on offer at a Brazilian beach and it is as much a social gathering point as it is a relaxing way to spend your time.
• The Brazilian BBQ is unique. I know Brazilian beef has a bad reputation in Ireland but I have never experienced any issues. The beef is really good, very tasty and they share the meat cooked in small pieces rather than eating individually.
• The Brazilian ladscape is unique. From the rainforest in the North, to the beaches along the eastern coastline, to the striking mountains in certain cities, to the waterfall bordering Argentina and Paraguay to the lakes and wildlife in the Pantanal, there are lots to see in Brazil. One thing they lack though is fantastic architecture that you see in Argentina or in most European cities.
• I believe Brazil is the most integrated country race wise in the world. You have everything in Brazil from the darkest skin to the whitest and everything in between. Sao Paulo for example has the largest Japenese population outside of Japan. It is common for different skin types to marry without any social unacceptance. I believe a small amount of racism does exist for those looking for work but in a social context it is not prevalent.
• Brazil is one of the few countries in the world to speak Portuguese and the only one in South America. For those who have been to Portugal the language is very different and the accent more so. It is not as harsh as the Portuguese accent and it is has lot more harmony to it resulting on it being very easy on the ear.
• What makes Brazil unique for me are the people. Without doubt the warmest, friendliest people I have ever encountered. Not all Brazilians are great but the vast majority are!
 

I mentioned music above but it is impossible to be aware of the strength and variety of the Brazilian music scene without having experienced it first-hand. The level of variety in genres amazing and music is such an integral part of the people's lives. Live music is commonly on show and what also amazes me is how all the people (whether it be at a gig, listening to music at a BBQ, listening in a bar or wherever) to a person all know the lyrics to every song played. If you take into account the amount of different music avaialble this is incredible and just goes to prove the amount of time the average Brazilian spends listening to music. Brazil may have close to 15 to 20 different types of music genres in which you encounter uniquely Brazilian artists for each. They also have incredible artists and while I am not a fan of every type and artist there are more than enough that I enjoy.

It is amazing to think that the first time I went I had no idea or interest even though I had a cousin Garret there at the same time who was and still is a big fan. I am now so glad I opened my eyes or in reality my ears to it. I also spoke to other travellers, who like me first time out, that know little or nothing of its variety and quality. I would advise anybody to explore it and you are bound to find some music there that will enrich your life. Look up Seu Jorge on the internet and start there. His range in voice and sound is something that is difficult to not enjoy!

One other great thing about Colombia and Brazil in particular is the freedom parents permit their children. You meet so many fun and interesting little characters who are so full of life and personality. You never see their parent reigning them in and it definitely fosters a positive viewpoint on life. I believe this freedom also enables them to be more comfortable later on in life as individuals and not feel so frustrated with themselves, as we do in Europe and North America with our inability to break ourselves away from society norms and pressures.

Not everybody is super or class in Brazil but there are definitely a higher percentage of them there than I have experienced elsewhere. Some people you meet travelling are indifferent or even dislike Brazil. Most of these have either had a bad experience (like being robbed - which is very possible) but in my experience none of them made any or many Brazilian friends or experienced their warmth of hospitality. The language barrier does prove difficult for some people as most people travelling to South America make much more of an effort to learn Spanish and find Portuguese very difficult so most have limited or no Portuguese while many Brazilians speak little of no English. I also met a lot of travellers who when commenting about Brazil often highlight how expensive it is but for me even though it is not cheap, it is still cheaper than home. Despite this it is rich in life and fun that makes is such a place worth exploring.

After I left Brazil I found myself hanging around with a lot of Brazilians in hostels in Uruguay and Argentina. If I heard a Brazilian accent in the hostel I would immediatly go to them to engage them in conversation. It was as if I was looking to re-enact those happy/warm feelings I had obtained from the friends I had made while in Brazil. I also really enjoy trying (and emphasis is on the word trying!) to speak Brazilian Portuguese. It is an incredibly sensual, sexy and fun language and easy on the ear. In most places people talk like as if they are singing which is probably one of the reasons why so many great musicians emenate from there.

I have so much to thank Brazil and its people. My time and experiences spent there have without doubt given me more clarity on how I want to live my life and express myself. Muitos obrigados amigos e amigas!!!!!!!

Tchau,
James.

Stefan Zweig a famous Austrian writer once said of Rio de Janeiro:

"I've never beheld such a paradise. The people are enchanting and a mercy on this earth of ours. This is the only place where there isn't any race question. Negroes and whites and Indians, three-quarters, one eighth, the wonderful Mulatto and Creole women, Jews and Christians, all dwell together in a peace that passes describing."

What else can I add about this amazing place!!!

Personally, I think Rio is without doubt the most naturally beautiful city I have ever visited. It may not have the architecture of European cities and it can be very unkept and dirty but I am continually mesmorised by the naturally beautiful surroundings. The idyllic combination of boisturous beaches, magnificant mountains, an enchanting lake, the aura of Jesus Christ Statute and as a result all the incredible views make it an oasis of astonishing beauty and alluring charm!

These pictures below speak much more than any words!

Yet again I spent one week in Rio with great friends. This was my fourth time in Rio and each time I have been fortunate to stay with the family of my great buddy Mauricio and his sister Celia. I feel like an extended part of the family and have been fortunate to have become very friendly with all their cousins and friends!

I met Mauricio and Celia in Sydney in 2002/2003 when we were flatmates and I have stayed with them and their family every time I have visited Rio. Mauricio also visited me twice in Dublin and he put up my little sister Aisling and her friend Aine for a week when they visited Sydney a few years back. A few of ye will have met the mighty Mauricio when he was in Dublin. Mauricio would be up there in my top 5 best buddies. Yet again both incredible Brazilian people!!!

Rio is the most famous city in Brazil and pretty much anybody reading this will know something about it regardless of whether they have visited it. Most of ye will associate Rio with incredible beaches, home of samba, Carnaval, producing fantastic footballers, the Maracana football stadium, the nightlife, the favelas (shanty towns), the Sugerloaf, Jesus Christ Statue and of course the beautiful ladies!!!

      The Brazilian Bottom. Defintely what the guys drool over the most here!


Rio is all of the above but in truth so much more!!! It has an incredible vibe to it and it really is like no other city in the world. The stunning backdrop of beautiful beaches and majestic mountains situated in the heart of the city centre makes the city so alluring. To top that you have the 24/7 nightlife and the Carioca`s (name for those who reside in Rio) lust for life which ensures you can never be bored here! Many travellers you meet, after spending time in Rio, say they feel that they never spent enough time there to fully appreciate all it has to offer.

The beaches in Rio are arguably the most beautiful in the world. The main beach-front is the stretch from Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon. Cocacapana was made famous worldwide in Barry Manolew`s song in years gone by but most tourists head for Ipanema. The continuous "Orla" (Portuguese for beachfront and named after me wee sister!) for the three beaches combined would take you c 2 hours to walk so the choice of beach available is quite staggering and no wonder why it is such an essential part of a Carioca´s life. Then you also have other beaches on the edge of the city which are unknown to most tourists but am told equally if not more beautiful than the famous ones.

Some pretty poor shots of the beautiful beaches. I don't think I will get offered a job as a cameraman!

I spent a week there and had a super time. I didn`t go clubbing but had plenty of beers when catching up with friends. I got to play 5 a side football with guys Edylson (Celia´s cousin) plays with each week. I managed to score a couple of goals and yet again it was beers and cut up steak after playing with a great bunch of guys.

After the footie with the lads all glued to the Flumienese match on the box!

                                      Playing 5 a side in Rio!!!


I also got to see Ronaldinho play for Flamengo in the semi-final of the Rio State Championship against Botafogo. Flamengo is my team in Rio and we managed to win out on penalties. The atmosphere in the stadium far exceeds anything we have in Europe. The fans are fanatical and incredibly passionate when in the stadium. They sing and dance the entire game and you get a good mix of young and old of both genders! Every person supports a team and the infamous Bill Shankley line of "Some people believe football is a matter of life and death, I am very disappointed with that attitude. I can assure you it is much, much more important than that" seems particularly apt in Rio and in truth all of Brazil.

                            What an atmosphere!!! Roll on World Cup 2014!

                                             Fanatical Flamengo fans!

                                      Chanting all the game!!!!!!!!!

                                               More chanting!!!

Even a bit of love at the game! You would get a lot of young ladies who go to the games and often more fantacial then the guys - very different from home!!!

                                              Great fans!!!!

Guys playing foot-volley on the beach. One of the most skillful things I have ever seen. The ball can stay in the air for over a minute on occasions!!!


Rio will be very busy in the coming 5 or so years. It will host the Olympics in 2016 and also will most likely be the main hub for the Football World Cup being hosted in Brazil in 2014. As a result, the city will see an incredible surge in tourist numbers and I know a few reading this have plans to visit during either of these two famous sporting occasions. Rio is very much on the world map but it will be the centre of the world´s attention in the coming years and so many people are going to be very fortunate to experience its charms for the first time. I just hope they don`t put the prices up too high which they do all the time during Carnaval.

With this being my fourth time in Rio, I spent pretty much all of my time meeting up with old friends from the city. Yet again I was engulfed by the incredible Brazilian hospitality. I was chauffered everywhere, put up for a week in my friends place, brought here there and everywhere and always made feel the centre of attention. People in Brazil really enjoy having people visit you and the welcome they give you is another level to anything I have experienced elsewhere. I know I have mentioned this on numerous occasions in other pieces but I really can`t emphasise this point enough and for me it is what makes Brazil so special!

It was great to meet up with all Mauricio`s & Celia`s family and friends (Boca, Tulli, Margaret, Sasa, Daniella, Rogerio, Patricia, Dudu, Helena, Rubens, guys we played footie with etc......) but I must give special mention to Celia and her cousin Edylson. They really looked after me and pretty much put any plans they had for the week aside in order to ensure I had the best time possible.

I was very fortunate to become a flatmate with Celia and her brother Mauricio in Sydney back in 2002. How litle was I to know then that as a result I would benefit from so many great trips to Brazil purely as a result of my luck in having them as flatmates.

I am a lucky boy and muito muito obrigado a Xixo, Celia, Eddy e otros amigos y amigas!!!!

                                           Celia having a giggle! A great girl!

Mise and Eddy - Eddy and myself are always taking the mickey out of each-other. He is a very funny guy!

                                          (Viejo) Eddy and Celia messing!

All the gang at the wall by the famous lake in Rio. We had some good laughs that night!

Myself, Margaret and Tulli (hope I spelt his name correct!)

Sasa and Celia. Sasa got married recently and he's gone a little quieter from the mad man I first met a few years ago! Seriously passionate Flamengo fan!

Sasa, Rogerio and Rogerio's son Dudu outside the football stadium on match day! Dudu is a real character and a footie fanatic. He trains with the Flamengo youth team so hopefully we will hear more from him in the future! His Dad Rogerio is a really classy guy whose not a bad footballer himself.

                                  
                                     Me, Sasa and the cheeky Dudu!

Tcahu for now,
James

ps I also spent a few days chilling in Paraty, which a small seaside town between Rio and Sao Paulo. I did very little there as I reckoned I needed some rest before Carnaval but have added some pics below! It is a really beautiful place but unfortunately the weather was a bit mixed!