Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Adios Colombia

Hola mis amigos!

LEAVING COLOMBIA
I finally managed to leave Colombia and head into the bordering Venezuela. It was hard to leave Colombia because I had such a fantastic time there and can´t believe I managed to spend over 7 weeks there as it flew by!

I spent my last few days in Colombia in a beach resort called Taganga, just outside a city called Santa Marta. Taganga is quite small but it was awash with tourists as it was holiday season and interestingly enough most of them were Spanish speaking from all over South & Central America. I took it pretty easy there as I needed a break after partying hard in Medellin and it gave me some time to prepare the next part of my trip in Venezuela and Brazil. My pictures are below and apologies as they are pretty boring as I keep on forgetting to take my camera out with me!

The city Santa Marta itself was a bit of a dissapointment and there was little to do or see in the city. The most famous aspect of the city is probably that the infamous Carlos Valderrama (the old Colombian footballer with the dodgy hairstyle) is from there.

The only night I really went out when there was New Years and as per usual with me there was no shortage of indicent! The only place I could get accommodation was in a 2 room hostal in Taganga so having arrived late Dec 30th, I had nobody to celebrate the New Year with. I decided to head into Santa Marta, the neighbouring city but no matter how hard I looked, I couldn´t find anywhere that was busy. After spending circa two hours walking around like a Zombie, I decided to head back to Taganga.

I got back to Taganga c 10.30 and was pretty pissed off so thought I would just head back to my hostel and call it a night. I arrive back at the hostel to realise I had left my key in my room and the owner was out so I couldn´t get in! It was nearly 11 at this stage and I was stuck in Taganga on me tobler but I had to stay out for the night. I ended going to a local bar (more like a shop where people stood outside and drank beer) where beers cost c 50 cents and started throwing back the Pilsen (favourite Colombian beer). After an hour, I got invited over to join a young local couple who were out with their two kids............or so I thought. The guy was 19 and the girl 24 and the two kids were 9 and 1. She had a kid with another guy but was now going out with this other guy. They had a very open relationship as she started to breast feed her young child right in front of us while all he did was talk about all the women he wanted to be with that night. I can´t remember the guys name but he really kicked things off when he started to buy large bottles of Aquardiente (sambuca) and a few hours later me and him are in the local disco next door. Don´t really remember much after that bar the fact I got very drunk and he tried to chat up everything that moved.

I left Colombia on January 4th. It was a bit surreal as after so long in the one country you start to get accustomed to everything there like the menus, drinks, currency, costs of things, slang etc............

When in Merida Venezuela 8 years ago, which is close to the Colombian border, as an Irish citizen it was nearby impossible to be allowed into Colombia. At that time, there were 3 Irish IRA guys being tried for training the FARC so it was a hot political topic in Colombia and as a result they were reluctant to let any Irish people in. Ever since, I have always wanted to go to Colombia and I was not dissapointed.

OBSERVATIONS ON COLOMBIA
Colombia has a reputation of being an incredibly dangerous country but in my experience there, this is far from the truth. Colombia is very conscious of its international reputation and as a result goes out of its way to leave visitors with a really positive impression of its country.

It´s a very easy-going country where people are only too happy to go out of their way to help you out. One great example of this was in Medellin one evening out with the Cathal and Ger (two tall Irish lads) and its Tuesday and pretty dead so we ask this couple at the next table where it is there anything happening on a Tuesday. The guy directs us in the right direction and next thing we knew he arrives on the street in his car and tells us to hop in, while he proceeds to take the two baby seats out of the backseat into the boot and he drives us to the next bar! These are the kind of experiences that occur to you in Colombia and you hear plenty of simlar of stories from other travellers.

By and large people were really friendly and helpful and I met some fantastic Colombian people including:
David from Bogota - I met David in our hostal in Cali where he spent his entire time making sure everyody in his company was happy and enjoying themselves. Class bloke!
Luisa from Bogota - really nice girl from Bogota who was kind enough to put me up for a few nights and also showed me around her city.
Angelica from Bogota - Luisa´s sister. The two girls went out of there way to help me around Bogota.
Adriana from Bogota - another great girl who myself and Danish Michael had a great night out with in Bogota.
The Guys from the shanty town in Medellin - all sound guys and great characters!
Pedro from Cali - our barman in Cali who always looked out for us and always enjoyed it when he saw me and Pontus entering the El Viejo Barril bar!
Pablo from Parea/Bogota - a great character who I had the pleasure of meeting in Medellin. A really funny guy who, unfortunately for him, supports Arsenal.....!
Maria from Santa Marta - my Spanish teacher in Medellin and a really sweet girl
Enrique & Veronica - a great couple from Taganga who had just opened a restuarant. On a couple of occasions, I went to eat in their restaurant, I would just spend the evening having a few drinks and having a laugh with them!

I met tons of great Colombians but it was these guys that stood out.

Colombia has a lot to offer to the tourist including a contrasting landscape with lots of mountains and beaches, an interesting history, contrasting cities, nice climate, great nightlife, lots of things to do and see and above all fantastic people. The only complaint is sometimes people working in bus terminals can be very short with you but other from that I hardly met a rude person.

For those interested, I added a bit more info on other famous Colombians come below:

Camilo Villegas (or be jaysus as we call him at home) - not very famous in Colombia by the way but he´s from Medellin with all the beautiful chichas!
Shakira - again not that popular in Colombia in my experience but she´s from Barranquilla, which is a big city on the Caribeean coast a few hours from Cartagena. I never heard Sharika´s music once on tv or radio when in Colombia. The few times it came up in conversation, Colombians expressed their dissapointment that she had negelected her roots in search of money in the US!
Faustino Asprilla - the crazy footballer who was a class player but probably derailed Newcastle´s title aspirations under Kevin "I´d love it if we beat them" Keegan. He´s from Valle de Cauca, which is on the Pacific Coast not from Cali.

Like every country it has it´s own intracancies. The unique things that stood out for me in Colombia were the:
1 - Love of soup - most restaurants would offer a menu of the day offer and this always included soup, a meat dish with rice and a juice. Was a bit strange to be taking soup so much in a hot climate!
2 - Love of arepas - pretty much every food was given to you with an arepa. A small corn like pastry dish and nothing to write home about. Being honest I was not a massive fan of the Colombian food.
3 - Great selection of Natural Juices - very like Brazil here and most restaurants would have close to 10 juices on offer and pretty much all of them were fantastic and really refreshing!
4 - Differences in temperature dependent on terrain - a 20 minute drive could mean the difference of 10/15 degrees in temperature. With so much montainaus terrain this is kind of to be expected but still a little strange all the same.
5 - Love of Aquardiente - the locals loved their Aquardiente - sambuca subsititute and drank it at regular occasions and as if it was water!
6 - Argentina Football Jerseys - A lot of people wear Argentina football jerseys which was really strange as it is a very different country, culture and at the other end of South America.
7 - Safety - Colombia is far safer than the what you read in the Internet. They are not an agressive race and the police presence is abundunt on street corners throughout the country. I am currently in Brazil which feels a lot less safer than Colombia, which is the opposite to what you would imagine if you were to believe what you read.
8 - Size of People - The average male height in Colombia is c 5 foot 7 inches so by and large they are quite a small race and those who are tall get a lot of looks and attention!
9 - Kids Love of Life - The young children in Colombia have a great life. They are given a huge amount of freedom and the have great personalities. Thier parents do not disclipine or try to control them much and all the time you see kids roaming the streets and beaches having a ton of fun and really enjoying themselves!
10 - Love in all Colombian music - from my experience pretty much every song I heard and somewhat understood when in Colombia was either to do with love or a relationship!!!!! It´s a country full of lurve!!!!!

Colombia is also full of tourists and I reckon this is only going to grown further over the coming years. Things are very stable, the terrorists seem pretty non-existent, you feel very safe and the people are by and large really happy to see you.

I think I will definitely return to Colombia as I made some good friends and had tons of positive experiences. It´s up there with the best countries I´ve visited!!!!

Over and out ,
James.

                 Old French guy who owned the hostel I stayed in when in Taganga. Bit of a character!


                                                View of the Taganga beach from afar


                                 People returning on the boat from a day of water-sports!

                         Playa Grande (next to Taganga beach) which means Big Beach but it actually is tiny!

                               Beautiful view of sea and mountains in the background in the sun!



                Taganga beach by day which could be very busy especially as this was holiday season!


                                                 Kite surfing is a very popular activity in Taganga

At Enrique & Veronica´s restaurant in Taganga where in the picture you have half of Enrique, a mad Italian guy and the chef from the restaurant! Really sound bunch of people!

Sunday, January 2, 2011

Cartagena Pictures











Medellin

Long time no blog..............apologies but I´ve been a busy man!

Spent the last three weeks in Medellin, which is Colombia´s second biggest city.

Again another contrasting city but the one memory that I will leave from Medellin are the beautiful women.......way above Cali and Bogota and in truth way above any other city I have ever visited. There are a lot of fake tits and fake asses and along with the beautiful faces it is enough to keep any man glued! The only downfall is most of the chicas know it and are not so easy to pull for the gringos! Medellin also has a lot of other things going for it including a perfect climate (c 20 to 25 degress all year round), very safe city, pretty clean, good transport links and again above all else........incredibly beautiful women!!!!!!!!

I spent my three weeks in Medellin in an Irish owned hostel, which is without doubt the madest hostel I have ever stayed in. At times it was a bit much but in general it was great fun and there with a ton of mad characters and stories. I can safely say this part of my trip was not very educational or cultural as in truth I was surrounded by absolute mad characters who kept ye constantly entertained!

We had Morecombe and Wise (Bailey and Neilser aka Yougurt Head as Bailey christened him). These two boys gave it some lash and would go on c 4/5 day stints without going to bed (at all....not even for a few secs). Myself a few of the lads used to love just hanging around with the boys as they'd be a barrel of entertainment, constantly abusing each-other but also keeping you informed of the mad stuff that was going on around the hostel............of which there was plenty!

The there was Irish Niall who was a small bald lad (ie no oil painting) from Fundrum (as he called it) aka Dundrum. Nialler would sleep most of the day and then awake each day for Happy Hour in the Hostel bar at 5pm and go on the absolute tear. He was a real character with lots of witty stories and his broken Spanish reminded you of the guy with the dodgy French in Allo Allo (ie I was pissing down the rude). He actually booked out one day and then decided to re-book back in as he'd missed happy hour the day before and he decided he couldn't leave the Hostel having missed Happy Hour! Nialler and a sound Colombian called Pablo entertained us solid one evening knocking back bottles of rum and aquardiente (like sambuca) straight while abusing each-other and telling stories. We had a table of c 10 people not drinking just sitting down to watch the two boys bounce off each-other. Hilarious stuff!

The hostel was like a mini Australia as there must have been on average at least 50% of the hostel from Australia at all times. Most of the guys and girls were sound enough but like when you get any big group of guys from one country in the same place they could really get on your tits at times. Any of the Aussies there were really there for the piss up and these guys really gave it lash. One weekend (Friday, Saturday and Sunday) a group of c 20 Aussie blokes went bananas drinking from 11am all the way through to the early hours. And being the competitve nation they are, it was like a competition to see who could drink the most and the fastest. Very similar to what we would be like after finishing school and heading to Greece, Ibiza etc.....but most of these guys were late twenties and early thirties. One particular character who stood out was Micko, who really put it away. Micko would start the drinking competitions and just get as wasted as quickly as possible. He was entertaining though as in one night he ended up in the pool in the wee hours and kept pushing in another girl, who was also off her head, and when she'd try to get out Micko would try to get her gear off but he was so wasted that he was making a meal of it. One of the guys was also awoken by Micko one morning doing what he called his "Helicopter" impression with his mini Micko (flute) in full view of the entire dorm. Safe to say Micko was not shy!

I was accompanied in Medellin for Christmas by my Swedish buddy Linus but then again I didn't see Linus much as he was busy with a young local lady from outside the hostel. The bauld Linus! Another sound lad who also got a bit tied up, excuse the pun, was Colm from Tipp. We went out with Colm one evening and he didn't head back with us as he got lucky. The next day there was still no sign of Colm and we were starting to get worried, only for him to eventually arrive back two days later having stayed a night with his girl and then spending the following day with her only from them to lose eachother that night. Colm being a resourceful guy that he is just said feck it and proceeded to pull another chica and then head home with her. The bauld Colm had plenty of tales to tell when he returned to the Hostel!

I also had a couple of great nights out and two in particular stand out. One night myself and three other sound Irish lads staying in the hostel (Ger, Gerry and Cathal) headed out to the Christmas lights festival in the centre of Medellin. The average male height in Colombia is c 5ft 7 so the people are fascianted by height. Well two of the boys (from the Banner and Co Chairrai) were over 6ft 4 and the looks they were getting were unreal. We ended up stopping by the side of the street towards the middle of the night and next thing every Tom, Dick and Harry were approaching the guys for photos. The lads knew well how to play it, as just as any photo was about to be taken they would pick up the locals and everybody would start laughing. This caused a real commotion around the area and next thing the two boys were the centre attraction,,,,,,,,,feck those lights!. Dozens of Dozens of locals were screaming with excitement and the boys must have had c 30/40 pics taken with locals. It ended up with a ton of c 20 year old boys and girls and we were all just jumping around chanting local football songs. Mad craic!

That was a great night but nothing can top the day we head in the shanty (Brazilain equivalent to a Favela) town area of Medellin one day. A group of 7 including Pontus (my mad Swedish buddy from Cali) of us took a cable card ride which brings you up to the mountains and gives you a fantastic view of the city. You pass the impoverised areas when on the cable-cars where horses are more prevalent than cars and everybody has a tin shed with rocks on top to ensure they don't get blown away. On the way up we took a further cable car which went over the other side of the mountain and brings you to a National park. On the way back down, Pontus, the great Swede that he is, comes up with the novel idea of getting off half way to have a drink in a local establishment. It was around 2pm and we got off and jumped into the first bar we found.

Little did we know what was to happen next. There were a group of local lads (aged c 20 to 35) skulling bottles of Aquardiente (sambuca equivalent) at the table beside us and they were over the moon that we joined them. The guy who was running the bar kept on asking us what music we wanted played and the lads next to us kept on giving us free shots of aquardiente. The locals on the street were all stopping for a gawk but you never felt initimated as everywhere you looked you saw smiles and serious characters. The only sinister thing was a bunch of rats (young kids c 5 to 8 years old) surrounding us looking to grab cameras etc....but they were harmless and we all got a great laugh out of them. These kids were incredibly streetwise and could sell sand to the arabs. The beer was flowing at an incredible speed and we were all getting well oiled pretty quickly.

With myself and Pontus leading the show, I asked the barman to put Riverdance on his music, which he got off youtube and next thing the street is blaring out Riverdance with head the ball Hanby doing his worst Irish dancing impression on the middle of the street! This was around 3.30, still bright and this was only the start of the madness. We get joined by a crazy local auld fella with a massive bottle of aquardiente, all for himself I might add, and he starts entertaining us with his crazy dancing skills in the middle of the street and grabbing people to get up with him including a few of us at the table. Another crazy local header approaches us with a bottle of aquardients for us and he then proceeds to start dancing with the the mad local auld fella. Everytime we get up we get given a shot of aquardients from the local lads and I reckon I must have drank close to 40 shots. It goes so mad that we have local shoe shining guys passing by and stopping for a dance but not putting down their shoe shining equipment, which are really heavy. We all eventually get up at some stage and between the crazy Swedish dancing, the crazy Irish dancing, the crazy Colombian dancing and even things like impressions of a bull running a matador.........things just go mental for the rest of the evening. Pontus really is kicking things off and in the latter part of the evening keeps taking his shirt off in pure drunkness and the whole place just erupts in laughter!

Eventually we leave there (don´t really remember myself) at a round 11pm and funnily enough they won't let me and Pontus on the cable-car back down as we are too drunk so we have a to get a taxi. We all got home but we all agreed this was a day we would never forget and defo the best afternoon´s fun I've had for a long long time!

I did do some touristy things in Medellin and probably most interesting thing was the Pablo Escobar tour. I am sure all of you have heard of Master Escobar but just in case he was Colombian's biggest drug baron for c 20 years where he pretty much ruled Medellin and some will say all of Colombia. He was considered to be the richest man in the world at his height and had a bit of a Robin Hood character traits as he did do some good things like build a small town for people without homes and some say he payed for the metro system that now exists in Medellin. He ownes a ton of houses including the equivalent of Phoenix Park where he had his own zoo with all the most unique animals from all over the world. He ruled the city through fear and paid anybody who shot a poilceman c $1,000 per hit and he had so many informants that it took the CIA years to finally kill him.

We got to visit his grave, his main prinicpal home (not the zoo but only 7 storeys!) and most interestingly his brother Roberto, who was the accountant for the operation and had just finished a 13 year sentance. Roberto was some character as he showed us around his home. He was pretty much blind and deaf in one side as when he opened a letter bomb when in jail it blew up in his face. Amazingly enough he was also a national champion cyclist before the operations started and he had tone of memorabilia from Tour de France etc....regarding his achievements on a wall in the house. Roberto still had people chasing him as only two months ago his home was attacked by thugs. He obviously still has informats as he was aware they were coming and they hid behind a big tree near the house and when the piolice arrived shots were fired everywhere and some people died. There was proof of the shots all over the house. Mad Nialler, who I described above, had told me he had heard Roberto was buddies with Rene Huigita, who was the famous Colombian goalkeeper who made the scorpian kick save in Wembely v England....see attached link.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCxe4r6SjH0.
I mentioned this to Roberto and next thing he proceeds to call Rene but he gets no answer. Mad Nialler told me he got talking to Rene and it was mad craic!

I also spent the last two days in Cartagena, a beautiful fortrees city on the North West coast of Colombia. It is a really pretty place where a lot of the Colombians come to chill for their holidays. On the way I took a 16 hour bus ride from Medellin and witnessed some of the horrific devestation experienced by the locals from the flooding caused by the heavy rains. I must have seen c 5 villages under water and in most of them you could bearly see the tops of most of the houses. So don´t be complaining at home about a bit of sneachta or frost or burst pipes etc..........coz if you´d seen this it would have really opened your eyes. I was going to take pictures but thought it would be really disrespectful  to those on the street who had just lost their homes etc....

As for Cartagena I was only there two nights but was really dissapointed with the nightlife as it is full of prostitutes, expensive and there are only a few places to go. I am now in Taganga, which is another beach resort a few hours from Cartagena where I spent New Years (will leave that story for next blog)! And in a  few days I will sadly have to leave Colombia and head to loco and peligroso (crazy and dangerous) Venezuela!

Hasta luego amigos!!

Hanbo.

ps For the horny dogs amongst have a look at this link from an average night club in Medellin (skip the first 20 secs).......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3aCXdFZb-Vw

Medellin City from a height


                                                       Medellin from a height 


Medellin Favelas where we had our mad day with the locals



Medellin Favelas


Medellin from a height


                                                  Another image from the cable car


                                                               Medellin Favelas


                                                          Rocky bridge on its last legs


                                                     National Park in Medellin


  Mad header offers us a bottle of Aquardiente......Pontsui and Anders are not so sure but that soon changes!



                           Pontus and the mad dancing local doing the bull and Matador impression!


                                                  Lads copying some Irish Dancing!


Pontus begins to come around to a free bottle of Aquardiente


                                                 Mad Local entertains us with his dancing

                                                              More mad dancing!

                                                          Dancing around the chair!


Mad local takes an Aussie girl dancing!

                                                         Its his own strip show!

Pontus gets its going with a local shoe shine guy...........notice how he´s dancing with his shoe shine equipment

                                                      Pontus starts to sance on his chair

                                       Pontus brings it to another level and the local mad guy is impressed!

                            Pontus goes bananas.........I love the guys face in the background!

                                            Pontus the Stripper..........starting to get dark


                                               Tin roofs with rocks to keep them intact



                                   The rat pack eye up our valuables............great little characters!

                                  Two mad locals dance together......this is around 4pm in the day!

Pablo Escobar´s mother

                                            Roberto Escobar´s bike he used to race with


Roberto Escobar´s biking memorbilla

                                A shot in the wall from when Roberta Escobar was attacked

                                                   Where they would hide their drugs and money


                                                         A shot in the window

                                              The tree Roberto hid behind when attacked recently


                                            Me and Roberto and the bike used to smuggle drugs



                                                          Me wearing Pablo´s old hat!

                                               A shot in the ground from when attacked  

                                       A night out at the lights with Cathal and two Ger´s

                         If you put the two locals together you should get the same size as Cathal!

                                                              Magic at the Christmas Lights

                                                          The boys pick up the locals


                                                               More adulation for the boys!

                   Me, Linus and two sound Argies (Ignacio and Gabriel). Spot the Zlatan Ibrahomic lookalike!

                                   Me Linus and Colm with local character in a restuarant

Local character breaks out a tuns for us. The wall is full of photos of his band and he also told me he had been with many ladies the dirty dog!

                                                               Samuel Eto lookalike

                                                    Robin a Swedish lad we went out with

                                                             Hanbo and the charm!

            Christmas dinner with New Zealand girl, Senor Bailey, Dave from Galway and Colm

                                              Me and Maria my sweet Spanish teacher

                                                    The hostel´s own Christmas lights

                                          A crazy beautiful girl I spent a day or two with...........stone mad!

      Christmas evening and a group have headed into the steam room.......wonder what happened there!

                                                       Pablo Escobar car


                                                  Another Pablo Escobar car   

                 Pablo´s small old house.....if you look closely you can see Escobar on the wall

                                                    Pablo´s football court next to house

                                                    Pablo´s grave........he died in 1993

                                                          The Escobar family grave

                                                      Pic of Pablo but with a shot in the wall

                                               A park near hostel in Medellin

Nialler (drinking) and Bogota Pablo (next to him) start off the fun knockign back the rum with a crowd watching